Focus

Getting ready for Champs, fitness was always part of the plan...but stuff gets in the way and you arrive pasty and not in peak form. So you try and get a few free surfs in between heats, but the long chats on the beach and catch up braais put you further behind. Then you check the swell reports and you've run out of time if it does get bigger and you make it through. And as the swell booms through the night down the Vic Valley, you start to work out an action plan. It's not a Jaws paddle in, but to a regular oke, you need to be on your game. An outside set could keep you busy struggling in the whitewater for half your heat. Then something magical happens when you decide you want it bad enough. What a jol to savour the drops and the fast winding walls, to skirt on the edge of your ability. To a pro - sure, whats the big deal...but hell it felt great to be challenged and be part of that fantastic swell. Still loving the stoke!
Deon
pic: Brenton Geach