Too many years ago, I entered an ASP qualifying event at Glen Beach in Cape Town. The wave of the heat came through, my luck and I was on it, laying down every move I knew, coasting up the rocks as it surged up the shore to finish. One point - out of ten..! So you reassess your ability and look for alternate salve to cope with your true surfing reality. So this wave comes through at SA Champs. Younger divisions would go straight off the top, or cut back over the whitewater. Racing it till it closed out just felt like the right thing for me to do - and to hell with the points! Suppose thats what its really about - doing it cos it feels right. What a rush!
Deon
Pic: Thanks Jeff Ayliffe
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