It probably started with Da Bull, or Eddie. Mutant waves that you watched, mind surfed and recoiled from as they broke - they went out and surfed them. Laird on that Teahupoo wave, Twiggy at Tafelberg Reef, Chris paddling at Jaws - waves that, as Buzzy Trent said, 'weren't measured in feet but in increments of fear'. Is there a wave that is so heavy it won't be ridden? Possibly that rogue barrel that rolled through Cloudbreak when the swell maxed? But don't bet on it - now they know, someone will go. Heres a clip from a recent tow in session in Oz. How much of a beating can a person handle?
Check it out.
Deon
Thanks Wavescape for the video
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