Aaah grab the stoke again! Strapping the boards, choosing the music, anticipating the perfect wave, the cars too slow, the lights always red, hoping its not too crowded, and the wind doesn't switch. Smell the wax, taste the salt, feel the push under bubbles, straining to stop being dragged back, breaking free for a moment before the next one, catching your breath as you make the back and get your line up. Seeing it coming and letting it go, cos the ballie was out before you, but the next ones better and by some fluke you're in the spot and you've just got to go, and everyones watching and you can"t blow it. Drop in like a cover shot, look at a wall full of options, risk losing it or pump through the section at warp speed and you are the wave until the whitewater closes you out, spitting and smiling...then pull the board back, crawl on and do it again.
Thomas - thanks for sharing the stoke!
Deon
PIC - Steve Symons
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